And what to do about it.

But you’re not going to get into the 60s from the ground alone - you’ve clearly got some significant heat coming in from the house. Brittany and Miller Callaway have been renovating their 1930s bungalow-style home, and we're helping them with their kitchen to-do list. Someone mentioned “several feet”; although in Midwestern cities like Dayton, Ohio the frost line is probably less than 3 feet—probably 30" or so.

My wife thinks it’s less pleasant in summer than in winter, but she is very sensitive to heat, and she doesn’t spend much time down there anyway. Now you've let all that into your nice

Answer Save. Here are 5 reasons why your home is cold. Air in the house stays clean thanks to a high MERV in duct return air filter. in each zone, whether it’s the kitchen, the living room or the bedrooms.

allow the little bit of available stack effect to actually move When it's 60F overnight the outdoor dew points are probably in the mid-50s F or lower, which is just fine for using a night-ventilation strategy That air might be at a high relative humidity at 60F, but when you bring it indoors and raise it's temp into the 70s the RH will be under 60%, maybe even under 50%. I often have to open the windows in my flat in the dead of Winter 'cause the apartment gets so hot. If you feel a draft, it’s because cold air is leaking inside your home and you need to seal your home’s ‘envelope.’ The envelope is the physical barrier that protects the inside, climate-controlled environment from outside weather.

If you’ve got a damp attic, you may think that diagnosing the problem is complicated. how to keep cold air from coming through windows, What You Should Know About Rainwater Management Solutions, She Shed Ideas for a Beautiful, Stylish Getaway, Your Source for Beautiful Kitchen Cabinets and Organizers, The Best Methods for Cutting and Gluing PVC Pipe, Alternative Wall Surfaces and Decorative Finishes. temporal-lag effects through polyiso on unusually warm winter What’s the solution? This will do a really good job at latent removal because it runs a lot.

Say it went down ten degrees outside, you've got It just doesn’t fluctuate as much as the air does. This article hits home and this is what I have done for 15 years to good effect. Have sealed the usual offenders in floor and ceiling planes and there is still enough natural infiltration to keep air quality good. Suppose I finish the basement, I would be blocking off the ductwork.

The same rule applies under your doors. But that seems like it would only be a concern in a fairly humid climate, yet your advice suggests that you think it's a bad idea across the board.

Hard to say. Does that make it more or less energy efficient? A foot of brick, Assuming you house is fairly well insulated, you can have a number of heat producing objects inside that cause the net temperature to rise. You won't find much complaining like this from these homeowners, house stays cool in summer, warm in winter, little heat-cool loads, no humidity control required.....allergy problems solved, no mold and mildew. Does This House Really Need Air Conditioning? The temperature of the ground does fluctuate: In the winter, the ground will be colder than you’d like, and in the summer, it’ll be hotter than you like.

Okay, I want to see the NREL study on the specific heat capacity The living room as well! If you don’t want to go the DIY route or to constantly reset your draft dodger when you’re indoors, a more convenient option is The Duck Brand’s Double Draft Door Seal, which has foam inserts you can easily cut to size, cover with fabric and strap into place. Better IAQ and for the environment too. the gentle drift, maybe 50 CFM all told [SWAG] if you've thrown

Why Are Basements Warmer/Cooler in Winter/Summer. He has eight soffit vents and two “turtle vents” at the top of the roof, he reports, and he wonders whether he should maybe add some more.

My wife thinks it’s less pleasant in summer than in winter, but she is very sensitive to heat, and she doesn’t spend much time down there anyway.

“As expected, the temperature in the house doesn’t fluctuate as much,” Watson writes in a Q&A post at GreenBuildingAdvisor. The simplest thing to do, of course, is to get a bigger air conditioner. My first thought is that it’s even more energy efficient, but then I started to wonder. In CA the daytime infiltration air is dry so it dehumidifies the house. of girlfriends. it makes no sense to try to combine night flushing with daytime air conditioning.

There’s another benefit to zoned climate control: You can save energy by heating only the spaces that you use.

Here's Why Your House Is Always So Freaking Dusty. Why is it so cold in my house in mornings? Max … A door sweep, such as The Duck Brand’s Triple Draft Seal, simply slides under the door — no tools required.

Ironically, after spending money on insulation to save energy and be more comfortable, it may be a good idea to buy a smaller AC. like dense-pack cellulose weigh in here?].

everything open? So I only try any of this on cooler *dry* nights.

[The floor of the basement is about 5.5 feet underground, and there are 12 inch concrete block exterior walls.]. Next, install weatherstripping to seal any gaps in exterior doorways. But how much flow is that really from

A draft dodger is a homemade item you can rest against the door to keep out drafts. Thermostat is set @ 80 degrees all day.

Low solar gain due to good orientation of double pane windows and generous roof overhangs (porches).

I just measured the temperature in my unfinished basement and it’s been mid to high 60s all weekend, though the temperature outside has been teens and 20s. This can often help with return airflow.

My parent's room is the coldest because of the way it was built, and my brother and sister's room is also really colder than most of the house. Your furnace will give off heat in the winter, from air leaks and radiation from the duct work. You have entered an incorrect email address! everytime we wake up in morning at 7am it is cold i nthe house even tho heating has been on from 6am.

Hard to say.

air up through the house. In most places the frost line----the point where the earth will be a constant 55°----is probably less than 36".

You don’t need the cool earth to help the basement stay cool, since the cold air from upstairs will keep it plenty chilled it settles in the basement. Now add the downside

What’s up?

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And it’s not because of the furnace being down there, because it does not vary significantly on different sides of the basement. But if this will change once the ductwork is sealed off, that might not be the case. In short, you’re giving up little heat to the outdoors in the winter, and accepting very little heat (from infiltration) in the summer. Your basement is largely below grade and is thereby insulated from the direct effect of the weather----much better insulated that an R13 stud wall. Otherwise, you may need to add more return ducts to your home. Another data point: I have an unfinished room in my otherwise finished basement which has a sheetrock wall on one side, and poured concrete on the other three.

Considering a heat pump upgrade could be smart, too, since it will heat well at higher temperatures that have low loads. (The question is how to structure the heating/cooling should I finish the basement.). Question is whether this is simply the result of the ground being insulation combined with the heated (or cooled, in summer) house or whether the ground itself actually provides some heating or cooling.

I do not understand this conclusion, at least in the context of a location with a decent diurnal swing. We like it cool at night for sleeping. What’s the solution? 90's built CA ranch style house, R30 batts in ceiling, R19 in walls. Knowing where to place mass is the other challenge, as are the building permits, getting labor cost down, the chemistry is a big challenge. So you will get benefit from insulating your basement; it just won’t be as big as the benefit from putting insulation elsewhere in your house. why no night flushing

I live in a garden (AKA basement) flat and it is always warmer than one would think.

Get building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox. down in the noise with the improved envelope! If the homeowner prefers higher temperatures and it is not the primary heat source, undersize it a bit, too. Are you sure you said what you meant to say?

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